Friday, December 26, 2014

Comment du Jour

A Transatlantic Tale at Christmas

French President Visits St. Pierre et Miquelon 

In the midst of his falling popularity poll numbers and rising unemployment rates, French President Francois Hollande visited the windswept islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon on the eve of  Christmas. The rather improbable Yuletide stopover in this little morsel of France in the North Atlantic was an unusual piece of political choreography as viewed by many observers.

An Overseas territory of France, the 93 sq. mile islands remain the only remnant of what was once a vast French territory in North America.  Situated just a stones throw from Newfoundland, Canada, the islands are inhabited by just over 6,000 citizens of the Republic.

St. Pierre and Miquelon have an economy based on fishing.  Tourism has potential but the fog and poor weather often make connections difficult.

Perhaps Pere Noel felt comfortable here despite the cold rain.  In the 2012 presidential elections, the region voted 65 percent for his Socialist party.  While on the island, Hollande stressed ecological themes and equally the economic opportunities for this territory to share in Arctic development.

The islands, are approximately halfway between New York and Greenland.

Hollande was not the first French President to visit the remote islands; Charles de Gaulle, Francois Mitterrand, and Jacques Chirac also stopped over during their tenures.

                         (courtesy University of Texas Libraries/Perry Castaneda Map collection)

Monday, December 22, 2014

Comment du Jour

Franco/American Relations Discussed at NY Forum







As part of its continuing Conferences@934 policy series, the French Consulate in New York recently hosted a forum on French and American Middle Eastern Foreign Policy since 2003.   The evening program brought together under the auspices of the French American Global Forum, offered a
tour d'horizon of the changing and often contentious policies between Paris and Washington in the wake of the Iraq War.

Gideon Rose, editor of Foreign Affairs magazine offered poignant insights into the issues which divided the two traditional allies in the countdown to the Iraq and the conflict's aftermath.  Prof. Robert Jervis of Columbia University provided an overview of the conflict and its aftermath.

Mr. Romuald Sciora, filmmaker and author, put together the program which is part of a wider series on Franco/American relations.   The discussion, followed by a elegant reception,  was held at the
Consulate on Fifth Avenue.




Saturday, December 20, 2014

Comment du Jour



New York getting wrapped for the Christmas Holidays!!!

Wednesday, November 26, 2014

Comment du Jour







Beaujolais Nouveau!


The iconic Beaujolais Nouveau, has arrived in the USA!

As is tradition the  "new wine" arrives from France for tasting the third Thursday in November.
The wine is best known for its fruity character and is often paired with Thanksgiving turkey.







Here in New York at the Sherry-Lehmann wine store on Park Avenue,
Franck Duboeuf was on hand to sign and personalize wine bottles of the new vintage from his
family firm.


A Votre Sante!

Sunday, November 16, 2014

Comment du Jour







Berlin--Kennedy Remembered


Just days after this blog covered the 25th anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall, I again found myself in the presence of a Berlin angle story.

Visiting Boston's John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, I chanced upon a slab of the Wall.  Small but well preserved.  This was part of as larger exhibit on JFK's foreign and domestic policies.

The Museum equally had a film of JFK's  June 1963 visit to West Berlin and his immortal speech to over a million Berliners   "Ich bin ein Berliner!"



Sunday, November 9, 2014

Comment du Jour





Slab of the Berlin Wall at the United Nations, NY


Berlin Wall Tumbles After Joshua Trumpet Sounds



A quarter century ago, the Joshua trumpet of freedom sounded and the Berlin Wall came tumbling down.  Naturally, this allegory was slightly more complicated as the epic political events which led to the fall of the Wall on 9 November 1989 were long in coming but nonetheless still not at all anticipated.   

The year 1989 represented an extraordinary epoch for human freedom both in aspiration and in fruition.  Starting in the Spring with Tiananmen Square in China, mass protests against regime corruption soon morphed into a swell of protest against the ruling communist  party.  But the brutal crackdown in Beijing soon sent the political reverberations across the vast land mass of Russia and into Eastern Europe.  

By Autumn these political shock waves had reached Hungary where the ruling communists allowed for the opening of a breech in the Iron Curtain dividing the two systems.  East German tourists were allowed to exit through Hungary en route to Austria and West Germany.

Before long, massive demonstrations in East Germany during the Fall, largely organized through the Lutheran churches in Leipzig, combined with a hesitation by Mikhail Gorbachev’s reformist Soviet Union to militarily intervene and to defend the ruling communists, led to a political Tsunami throughout the East Bloc by November.  The Soviets blinked.

Seeing Berlin the first time in the 1970’s through the window of a Pan Am aircraft descending through the steel grey clouds one viewed the Wall as a gash across the heart of the city. 

Visiting the city offered the glaring contradictions of a brash and prosperous West Berlin literally alongside the grey, sullen but still historically significant East.        

On the one hand, Berlin  was a Cold War theme park, a tableau vivant of contrast and coercion.   On the other, the pathos of division;  divided families, separated neighborhoods, and blocked streets brought the reality up close and personal. 

The Wall was erected by the ruling communists in August 1961.  Indeed, Berlin stood as a somber if glaring reminder of  the German capital’s post-war division as well as the political fault line between the democratic West and the communist East. 
                                           
But for a long time Berlin slipped into a kind of political Purgatory inside the larger struggle of the Cold War, “The most dangerous place on earth,” as Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev called it.

The divided city was vulnerable to coercion but also a symbol of enduring freedom and prosperity.  For the East Germans, the Wall barred exit to liberty but more aptly represented a suffocating cordon of their socialist society.   For many who tried to escape the East, often using the most ingenious methods, there was freedom in the West.  For others, over 138 people, they were shot and killed trying to flee the workers paradise.

Repression by East Germany’s regime was legendary; see the truly amazing film The Lives of Others for a serious and jarring look into both the spying and psychological repression of what was called the “socialist State on German soil.”  Today the former DDR is remembered for the polluting Trabant autos, the Stasi secret police, and a still-lingering psychological separation between former West and East Germany.

There are of course the poignant memories at the Brandenburg Gate;  John F. Kennedy’s iconic 1963 speech. “Ich bin ein Berliner!” or President Ronald’s Reagan’s memorable clarion call, “Mr. Gorbachev, Tear Down This Wall!”

Yet until its reunification in 1990, Germany remained a divided nation.

Names like Ronald Reagan, Helmut Kohl, Mikhail Gorbachev and significantly Pope John Paul II played an extraordinary role in these epoch events which would sweep through Eastern Europe, see the collapse of the Berlin Wall, and lead to the singular achievement of German re-unification a year later in peace and freedom.

Fast forward to 2014; Berlin united, prosperous, and free. What happened to the Wall, its 87 miles of concrete slabs?  Most of the barrier has been torn down and simply disappeared, slabs are in Parks around the world, but the haunting memories linger.

                                                               ***************
East Germany's last Communist leader; Erich Honecker
From an art exhibit at the German Consulate, NY 

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Comment du Jour



South Korean President Recalls Germany's Reunification 


“This year marks the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.   But the Korean Peninsula remains stifled by a wall of division,” stated South Korean President Park Geun-hye.   In a landmark address to the UN General Assembly, President Park made the bold assertion, “I call on the international community to stand with us in tearing down the world’s last remaining wall of division.” 

Stirring words.  Stirring themes.  Especially, punctuating the diplomatic drone of many of the General debate speeches. 

Though Park recalled, “The two Koreas were separately admitted as member states to the UN in 1991. Having two separate seats despite a single language, culture and history is clearly not normal. ”  Since the end of WWII, the historic Korean nation has been divided by the demilitarized zone (DMZ) which has tragically become part of the national geography. 

The DMZ dividing South and North Korea is 4 km wide and 250 km long and while serving as the demarcation line, also has blocked the free flow of people for 60 years.

Visiting Germany earlier this year, Park Geun-hye  admired many of the places connected with that nation’s peaceful unification nearly a quarter century ago. 

Speaking hopefully, Park extolled, “Just as the unification of Germany laid the grounds for a new Europe by integrating Europe, a unified Korea will set in motion a new Northeast Asia.” 

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Comment du Jour



Viennese Soft Power in New York



Vienna's Tourist Board and the city's famed Cafe Central recently sponsored a cultural expo in 
New York's Grand Central Terminal.  The exhibit  showcased the upcoming  150th anniversary of the Austrian capital's Ring Strasse boulevard; 1865-2015.  

The Expo in Grand Central featured a small but authentic version of Cafe Central, complete with special Viennese coffee, the Manner wafers, and current Austrian newspapers.   Equally there was a Skype computer hook up with Cafe Central which allowed Americans to chat live with Austrians.

The Ring Strasse is literally bejeweled with the State Opera, numerous world class Museums, the Imperial Palace/Neue Burg,  City Hall and the Austrian Parliament.  And there's more!

The Boulevard was opened by none other than Emperor Franz Josef in May 1865. 

But besides stately buildings and repositories of the fine arts, the Ring also boasts coffeehouses such as Cafe Schwartzenberg and Cafe Pruckel, both of which are along the green Park Ring section.  

According to Norbert Kettner, the Director of the Vienna Tourist Board, "The Ringstrasse is the world's largest open-air museum, typical Viennese style, lively and unique." 

Not surprisingly, the famed Vienna Ring trollies, rumble or actually now glide along this magnificent boulevard.  There's a special Vienna Ring Tram, with the old polished wood seats,
that makes the trip on a regular basis too.  Since the Tram started in 2009, over 300,000 passengers have enjoyed the sights and lights of Vienna.



                                            Chatting live with Cafe Central in Vienna!




Monday, October 13, 2014

Comment du Jour





French Bookstore Opens in New York

Literary Jewel on Upper Fifth Avenue Dazzles



A few years ago, the iconic French bookstore in Rockefeller Center closed.  To be sure the Librairie de France store which started in the 1930's and was part of the magnificent art deco complex near the skating rink could not compete either with the internet nor a fall off in reading habits.

Happily New York, and its large and growing French-speaking community, not to mention beaucoup de Francophiles have a new bookstore set in a jewel-like setting on Upper Fifth Avenue near the Metropolitan Museum of Art and across from Central Park.  Albertine prides itself as "a reading room and bookshop that brings to life French-American intellectual exchange."

The concept of this bookstore comes from Antonin Baudry, the cultural counsellor for the French Embassy, who is himself a celebrated author although under a nom de plume. Baudry wrote the
book Quai d'Orsay  (a serious comic) which was equally made into a  satirical film in France under the same name.  It offers a curious look at the French Foreign Ministry and the political personalities and foibles in the Quai D'Orsay. 

Voulez-vous entrer??

But I digress.  Albertine is situated in a townhouse which is home to the Cultural Services of the French Embassy.  Albertine is both a cultural offering to America and a business offering 14,000 contemporary French and English books, French children's books and art volumes.  Prices are comparable with the cost in France and don't have huge markups.

The vibe is a grand private library.  The setting evokes the superlative Parisian Franco/English bookstore, Gagliani.   The overall feel is a quiet and inviting class which is enhanced by the reading room.


Albertine's mission includes volumes "which were selected with passion and curated with care."

The  store was officially opened recently by French Foreign Minister Laurent Fabius.

But besides books, there is a forum for intellectual discussion and the Festival Albertine shall offer a series of lectures from "Women at Work/Mad Men" (yes the TV series) through topics, "Why to we still read Tocqueville?

Do check the extraordinary offering at  www.albertine.com

Bravo for this beautiful bookstore!





Friday, September 26, 2014

Comment du Jour

                                         New York's Steuben Day Parade
                                       German-American Friendship Day


                                  Youth and Sports groups marched in the Parade



        Both the German Consulate and Embassy sponsored floats--Berlin's Brandenburg Gate





                     Celebrating 25 Years since the fall of the infamous Berlin Wall in 1989!
                                            This float was among the most popular






                                           Until next year!!  Auf Wiedersehen!

Monday, September 22, 2014

Comment du Jour







German-American Steuben Parade

The 57th annual Steuben Parade marched up New York's Fifth Avenue with a colorful array of bands, floats and  traditional costumes.  The parade honoring General Friedrich Wilhelm von Steuben, who played a crucial role in training and organizing the American Revolutionary Army, has become an annual event celebrating German-American Friendship.



The Parade which stepped off under beautiful bright skies, saw thousands of marchers and spectators along the route  from 68th Street up Fifth Avenue to 86th Street.

New York TV personality John Muller, from WPIX Channel 11 served as Grand Marshall.




                                            West Point Cadet German Language Club


                                           New York Fire Department Steuben Society





And there were the Beer Floats...






Karnival Marchers!




Folklore Groups...

More Beer!   Zum Prosit!!


And yes the World Cup of Football!!
Germany Won the FIFA World Championship


PART II to Follow soon!!!






Friday, September 19, 2014

Comment du Jour

Scotland the Brave--Staying in the United Kingdom!

Scotland has voted overwhelmingly to stay within the United Kingdom.

Despite what many polls predicted would be a close call for the Scots
choosing independence from Britain, the actual tally showed 55% support for staying
together while 45% wanted independence.

Except for Glasgow city where the Yes vote prevailed most other centers showed nearly two-thirds of respondents wishing to Stay Together with the UK.  Fully 86% of voters turned out in what was a landmark referendum.

A Yes vote would have produced a jolt to financial markets and equally raised serious questions over Scotland's future within NATO and the European Union.

Scotland has been part of the UK for over 300 years.

Beyond Scotland, an independence vote would have stirred separatism throughout Europe and wider afield from Spain to Corsica and Quebec.  

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

Comment du Jour



        Notre Dame Cathedral





France Surges in Global Tourist Visits

Surprised?


France has again emerged as the world's most visited country with 85 million tourists last year.

The USA comes in second with 70 million visits, Spain follows with 61 million, and now China with 56 million.

Of those visiting France are 13 million Germans and 12.6 million Brits.  Approximately 4 million North Americans--USA and Canadians journeyed last year as well.  Yet it's the Chinese tourists where we see a surge of 24 percent last year to 1.7 million while visiting Japanese were 700,000.

Go to any deluxe boutique or department store and its glaringly apparent that the Mainland Chinese visitors are big spenders and the "new Japanese" or what the Americans were 25 years ago.  Add big spending Arab and Russian visitors and you see the new "bling-bling" clientele.

And what are the top tourist sites visited by those touring la belle France?

1  Disneyland Paris with 15 million

2 Notre-Dame of Paris     14 million

3 Sacre-Coeur                   10.5 million

 4 Le Louvre                         9 million (and all seemingly on the day we visit!!)

 5 Chateau de Versailles     7.5 million


La Vie en Rose?







                                           Courtyard of Le Louvre with the Pyramid


Monday, August 25, 2014

Comment du Jour

Russian Navy Making Waves in France

ST. NAZAIRE, France—Far from the sputtering conflict, the war of words, and the diplomatic jousting between Russia and the West over the future  sovereignty of Ukraine, there’s a lucrative business deal unfolding in the  French Atlantic port of St. Nazaire.  There amid the construction cranes and buzzing machine shops of one of France’s largest naval shipbuilders, two new steel grey ships are taking form; both being amphibious assault ships for the Russian navy. 

Looming menacingly, both on the horizon as well as in relations between France and many of her Western allies, the Vladivostok presents a quiet testament to the proverbial bottom line in business relations between France and Russia—business as usual despite the political problems du jour.  
 
A few years ago, France contracted to build two Mistral class  navy helicopter ships in the port of St. Nazaire.  The business deal between the South Korean owned- STX shipbuilder and the Russian navy exceeds $1 billion for each vessel and plans are to deliver the first of the ships probably later this year, politics permitting.

For Moscow, the deal represents the first major weapons import since the fall of the former Soviet Union.




But for France, the deal has caused political waves with many of its closest allies.

While Washington and London have pressured Paris to scrap or slow down the sale, the French Socialist government, facing near nil economic growth, and fearful of further job cuts, still support the sale which sustains an economically endangered shipbuilding industry.

Though the British government has pressured France not to pursue the sale given the international actions of Vladimir Putin, Francois Hollande has lashed out at London over “its hypocrisy” in hosting so very many wealthy Russian oligarchs.   

The Vladivostok’s steel grey frame is taking form. Over 400 sailors are already stationed on the ship, learning the ropes so to speak, before it returns to Russia for active military service as a helicopter carrier enabling rapid intervention and deployment likely as the flagship of a new Mediterranean squadron.  Each ship will be fitted with 16 K-52 “Alligator” attack helicopters.

Ironically viewing the behemoth has become a kind of spectator sport in the port town.  Curiosity being what it is, locals and tourists come to visit the docks to see the vessel, watch the sailors on drill, and often watch the crews on leave in town hovering near cell phone shops to pick up free wifi signals.                                             
A bit of history. Situated on the Bay of Biscay, St. Nazaire remains one of France’s greatest ports; its shipbuilders constructed such iconic trans-Atlantic ocean liners as the Normandie in the 1930’s, the  France in 1961, and Cunard’s new flagship the Queen Mary 2 just a decade ago.  The modern shipyard routinely constructs many of the cruise ships which ply Caribbean waters.  On a darker side, during WWII and the German occupation of France, the port hosted one of the largest U-boat bases, the fifteen near-intact submarine pens from that era still stand as a silent testament to the past.

When Moscow slapped economic sanctions on the USA and European Union, in response to earlier Western sanctions on Russia, the French agricultural sector felt the financial pinch. French exports to Russia last year totaled $10 billion. Of that sum approximately one billion dollars is formed by agricultural products such as meat, vegetables, and wines.  France’s long pampered and protected farming sector feels the pinch.  The Socialist government thus rationalizes the military sale as necessary.

Both the Vladivostok and the Sevastopol, when delivered will be based in the Black Sea port in  Crimea, annexed by Russia earlier this year to the backdrop of world outrage.  The Mistral class vessels  allow for an enhanced and potent amphibious assault capacity.

Given growing European political and military concerns over Moscow’s policies, there’s a quiet nervousness among the French over the ship deal, despite the economic benefits.  As a former shipyard worker told me sarcastically, “Sure it’s good for business, but they (the Russians) are not going to throw it back at us, are they?”  One wonders.




Monday, August 18, 2014

Comment du Jour

The Guns of August

A Century Passes Since the Start of WWI but Tragic Wounds Remain







On June 28, 1914 the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife were murdered in Sarajevo by a Serbian terrorist.   The assassination  a century ago led to a spiral of events which triggered the Great War.  Millions died in the carnage. 

Above,  the Archduke, heir to the Austro-Hungarian Throne is seen just before he was shot in his auto.


The car in which the Archduke was killed, is preserved in  the Austrian Army Museum in Vienna.
The auto is actually quite small and seemed just wide enough for the Royal couple to fit in the rear seat where they where shot by an terrorist from the infamous Black Hand.  This Serb nationalist group was active in multi-ethnic Sarajevo, site of the Archduke's official visit. 




The front of the auto as would have been seen as it approached the 19 year old killer Gavrilo Princip. 

The Royal Couple were both gravely wounded and died before reaching the hospital.  

The auto, an Austrian built Graf & Stift Double Phaeton,  is currently on display as the centerpiece to commemorations of the First World War. 

Monday, July 21, 2014

Comment du Jour

Syria’s “International Brigades” Could Sow Domestic Terror


A 22 year old Florida man sets off a suicide bomb in Syria.  Seven Dutch jihadis are killed in combat with Syrian army units.  A Frenchman, just returned from Syria, kills four people at a Jewish museum in Brussels.

Those are some of the shocking stories which emerge from the civil war in Syria which has now spilled over into Iraq, as radicalized Muslim extremists leave the USA, Britain, and Europe to pursue a religious and ideologically driven jihad in the cauldron of the Middle East.  The ranks of these foreign fighters have grown to at least 7,000 according to U.S. intelligence officials. 

Many of these fighters have been inspired and loosely linked by social media as well as many radical mosques, especially in Britain and France.

At issue is not simply that these volunteers are fighting abroad under dubious circumstances, but more troublesome, upon their return from Syria, will many of them become ticking time bombs throughout  American and European cities?  We are not talking simply about political radicalization, but specific military and terror skill sets which can lie dormant or possibly be triggered by events or by design.

Britain’s MI 6 security agency says that as many as 300 of these foreign fighters may have already returned to the United Kingdom from Middle East warzones.

U.S. Attorney General Eric Holder said the Syrian conflict had “turned into a cradle of violent extremism,” that could threaten Western countries when fighters return home.

Responding to the growing threat the French government has proposed six-month travel bans on certain individuals going to Syria.  It’s estimated that two or three French citizens leave daily to join radical Islamist groups overseas.

Even Al-Qaida terrorists have been wary of the hyper-radical Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS), a signature movement of choice for many of the radicals.

Besides the ideological and religious magnetism of fighting in the Middle East, the practical transport access is not too complicated.  Most militants fly to Turkey along with a huge tourist surge.  The Turkish Islamic/lite government in the meantime has played fast and loose with allowing all sorts and stripes of rebels and dissidents slip over its porous border with Syria.  Among  the “moderate” rebel groups staging from Turkey, there’s also a pipeline for the fanatics. 

But here’s the real problem.  Contrary to many hardline jihadis from Afghanistan, Pakistan or Yemen, these militants don’t carry “red flagged” passports but rather hold American, Belgian, British, French or German passports.  Easy unhindered access inside the 28-member European Union is guaranteed by the Schengen Agreements allowing for free movement among member states.  So once such a citizen re-enters the European Union, he is then free to move and mingle throughout the region without any passport controls, except for the United Kingdom.

Equally a EU passport holder from France, Belgium or Germany has visa free access to the USA.   While the free movement is a boom for trade, tourism and commerce among countries, it allows for the easier travel of many such foreign fighters.

EU Interior Ministries are keenly aware of this unlocked back door.  Equally U.S. Homeland security is ramping up surveillance of many European origin flights to the USA in light of this reality.
 
Evoking the “International Brigades” of the Spanish Civil war (1936-1939), these foreign fighters are driven by ideological zeal, to fight for the “cause.”   The American “Lincoln Brigade” was composed largely of leftists and communists.  A similar political strand was true with many of the British, French and German communists who fought in Spain.   The International Brigades were powered by an  commitment to “fight fascism,” supporting the Spanish Republic against General Franco’s  insurgent nationalists, who were  backed by fascist Germany and Italy.

Syria’s International Brigades are significantly different in many ways; these are hardened religious zealots, many of them converted to Islam, whose “cause” is to establish an Islamic Caliphate in the Middle East.  Syria’s secular regime is supported by Russia.  The cause here is both the cult of violence and to spread radical Islam. According to the Syrian Observatory for Human rights, over 170,000 people have been killed in the conflict thus far. Of 45,000 rebels killed, 15,000 are foreign, mostly Arab fighters, but many indeed are Western.

Lamentably, the unintended consequences of the so-called Arab Spring, coupled with the Obama Administration’s strategic ineptitude, are starkly obvious from Libya to the Levant and into Iraq. 

The black flag of jihad now flies over parts of Syria and Iraq.  When shall some of its foreign zealots return home?